Preparing for a trip to Phnom Penh? Review this page for information that may be useful to you. For travel tips of other destinations, go to Phnom Penh Travel Guide.
Introduction
Phnom Penh, the capital and largest city in Cambodia, is located beside the Tonle Sap River, which flows into the Bassac, a branch of the Mekong River. Phnom Penh is an ancient city that can trace its history to the 14th century, when Ponhea Yat, the Khmer king at that time, moved the capital from Angkor Thom to a settlement beside the Tonle Sap river. The population of Phnom Penh had fluctuated wildly in recent history. In 1975, it swelled to over 2 million people when refugees fleeing the fighting in the countryside flooded the capital. On 17 April of that year, Phnom Penh was taken by the Khmer Rouge forces, and the Khmer Rouge wasted no time in forcing all of Phnom Penh's residents out of the city, sending them to the countryside to work as forced labourers. For years, during the Khmer Rouge regime, Phnom Penh was a dead town. Only after the Khmer Rouge were vanquished by Vietnamese forces did people return to Phnom Penh. By 1998, a census placed the population at 862,000. By 2001, the estimate was slightly over 1 million. It is believed that 2 million people may be living in and around Phnom Penh today, although it still retains a decidedly small town feel to it.
Many tourists to Phnom Penh are surprised to find such a lovely city, with broad, leafy boulevards which were built by the French, against a distinctly Indochinese backdrop. It is not too big a city, and the main sights could well be covered on foot, while those further away will require you to hire your own transport or join a day tour.
Major tourist sights in Phnom Penh are related to its recent history. Among these is the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields. The Phnom Penh National Museum houses some of the finest collection of Angkorian art to be found anywhere in the world - indeed, this non air-conditioned museum is perhaps the only place to view original Angkorian sculptures, even in Angkor itself, the sculptures are often replaced by replicas to prevent theft. Scroll down to view list of sights in Phnom Penh.
Population approximately 1 million (2001 estimate)
Orientation
Phnom Penh is located on the western bank of the Tonle Sap River. It is near the confluence with the Bassac River, a branch of the Mekong River. The roads in Phnom Penh follow a numbered grid system. Roads the run north-south are odd numbered. The number increases westward. Roads running east-west have even numbers.
Arrival
The majority of visitors arrive by air, at the Phnom Penh International Airport. Some arrive by ferry from Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City, and still some by coach from Thailand.
By Air
Phnom Penh International Airport (http://www.phnompenh-airports.com/phnompenh/en/), formerly Pochentong International Airport, is the main gateway into Cambodia. It is located 11km from the city centre (Sisowath Quay). Taxi is available outside the Arrival Hall. Taxi from airport to city is between US$5 and US$7. It takes about 20 minutes to go from Phnom Penh International Airport to the city. Motodop (motorcycle taxi) available around US$2. Always negotiate and agree on the fare before the ride. You can take the official airport taxi by buying a coupon at the airport taxi counter for US$7. If you have your accommodation booked in advance, check whether transfer from airport to hotel is provided.
The following airlines fly to Phnom Penh:
AirAsia (Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok)
Angkor Airlines (Taipei-Taiwan Taoyuan)
Asiana Airlines (Seoul-Incheon)
Bangkok Airways (Bangkok) tel: (23) 426624
Cathay Pacific
Dragonair (Hong Kong) tel: (23) 424300
China Airlines (Taipei-Taiwan Taoyuan)
China Southern Airlines (Beijing, Guangzhou) tel: (23) 424588
EVA Air (Taipei-Taiwan Taoyuan) tel: (23) 219911
Far Eastern Air Transport (cargo) (Taipei-Taiwan Taoyuan)
Jetstar Asia (Singapore)
Kampuchea Airlines (Bangkok, Hong Kong, Seoul-Incheon)
Korean Air (Seoul-Incheon)
Malaysia Airlines (Kuala Lumpur) tel: (23) 426688
President Airlines (Bangkok, Ratanakiri) tel: (23) 427402
Thai Airways International (Bangkok) tel: (23) 214359
Transmile Air Services (Penang)
Vietnam Airlines (Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Vientiane) tel: (23) 363396
Airport Tax:
International departures from Phnom Penh: US$25 for adults, US$13 for children 12 and under.
Domestic departure: US$6 .
By Road
From Thailand: Bus available from Poipet, on the Thai border. Fare to Thailand is about US$10. Journey between Poipet and Phnom Penh is about 12 hours.
From Vietnam: Bus available from Ho Chi Minh City. May is about 5-6 hours between Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh. AsiaExplorers Advice We urge travellers entering Phnom Penh to take the flight. Those entering by road are often exposed to border scams. Get your visa ready or else you may face border officials who create their own border laws, charging you inflated price for visa, or charging you a fee for vaccination certs that are not mandatory.
Bus Companies
Take the bus as the rather chaotic "terminal" at the southwest corner of the Central Market.
Sorya (Ho Wah Genting)
Corner Street 217 and street 67, Phnom Penh 12209 Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 210-359, 210-859
GST Express Bus
#13 Street 142, Phnom Penh 12209 Cambodia.
Mobile: (855) 12 838-910, 12 895-550
By Boat
From Siem Reap: Visitors to the ruins of Angkor at Siem Reap may consider taking a ferry to Phnom Penh. The journey can be as short as 5 hours and as long as hours, depending on the speed of the boat and the depth of the water. Along the journey, you get a glimpse of rural Cambodia, and life along this main artery. Ticket price is about US$25 - you may get it cheaper if buying from a tour agency.
From Vietnam: Fast boat journey between Chau Doc on the Mekong delta, in Vietnam, and Phnom Penh. The journey takes about 5 hours. Boat leaves Chau Doc at 8:00am in the morning, and leaves Phnom Penh at 1:00pm in the afternoon, arriving in Chau Doc in the evening.
Some of the boat operators
Khemara Express Boat: High Way No 5A In Front of Soksan Club: Tel: 023 430 777
Soon Ly Boat: Tel: 023 725 797/ 012 728 055
Channa Boat: Tel: 023 725 788
Royal Express Boat: Sangkat Sras Chork Khan Daun Penh, Road No 5. Tel: 023 725 538
Angkor Express Boat: Sisowath Squay International Phnom Penh Port. Tel: 023 426 892
Rambo Express Boat: Tel: 012 846 818/ 011 876 678
Mittapheap Boat (Friendship): Tel: 023 880 857/011 876 555
Hang Chau Boat: Sisowath Squay International Phnom Penh Port. Tel: 012 883 542
By Train
If you have time to kill, there's a train service between Phnom Penh and Battambang, the second largest city in Cambodia. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours, but usually takes much, much longer, although the journey is only 275km. The ticket is only 22,500 riel per way for foreigners. Train leaves Phnom Penh at 6:20am on Saturdays, and return trip leaves Battambang at 6:40am. Check out this website for more details: http://www.seat61.com/Cambodia.htm
Telecommunications
When dialling from overseas, the IDD code for Cambodia is 855. The area code for Phnom Penh is 23. When dialing within the country outside the same area code, add 0 in front of the 23.
Emergency Contacts
Ambulance: 119 or (23) 724891
Police: 112, 117 and 012-999999
Fire: 118
Police for Foreigners: (23) 724793
Hospital
Calmette Hospital, 3 Monivong, tel: (23) 426948
International SOS Medical & Dental Clinic, #161 Street 51, tel: (23) 216911
Naga Clinic, #11 Street 254, tel: (011-811175
Tropical & Travellers Medical Clinic, #88, Street 108, tel: (23) 366802 / 012-898981
Dentist
German Dental Clinic, #9A Street 594, Toul Kok, tel: 012-894679, 018-811893
IMI, #193 Street 208, tel: (23) 212909, 016-880873
Roomchang Dental Clinic, #58 Street 228, tel: (23) 211338
Opticians
I Care Optical Centre, #166, Norodom, tel: (23) 215778
Royal Optic, #220, Monivong, tel: (23) 428280
Pharmacies
Pharmacy De La Gare, #81Eo, Monivong, tel: (23) 526855
Getting Around
Apart from walking, you can take a number of transports to take you around Phnom Penh. There are no buses though. I arrange the list below according to what I find most convenient to an average tourist:
Tuk Tuk: Cambodian tuk tuk is a motorcycle with a cabin behind it that accommodates two persons comfortably. They are a good way to experience Phnom Penh. However you will be exposed to the heat, dust and sun.
Taxi: These are fewer than tuk-tuks. If you want to look for them, head for the Foreign Correspondence Club on Sisowath Quay. They don't have meters, so negotiate a fare before boarding. Get your hotel or guesthouse staff to call a taxi for you.
Cyclo: These are human-powered ricksaws. Use it if you have time to kill. Negotiate the fare before boarding. I personally do not like to take cyclos as they are just too slow.
Motorcycle Taxi: Also called "moto" or "motodop", these are the most common form of transportation. Expect to pay about 1000-1500 riel for short journeys, and 2000 riel for longer ones. Negotiate and agree on the fare before boarding.
Chaufeured Car: It is possible to arrange for a car with driver, though self-drive cars are not available. A car with driver will cost you about US$20-35 per day. 4WD vehicles will cost around US$60 per day.
Car Rental Co Ltd
No 49, Street 592
12152 Phnom Penh
Tel: 023 880 001
email: car_rental@online.com.kh
Accommodation
There is a wide range of accommodation available in Phnom Penh, from the most basic guesthouses to the most luxurious boutique experience. AsiaExplorers provides an unbiased listing of the accommodation in Phnom Penh, based on recommendations and my own experience and research. We do not accept monetary payment from the establishments for my endorsement, and represent my won opinion. Click the link below for the listing:
To find inexpensive accommodation through AsiaExplorers, use our associate site, Budget Accommodation Guide.
Postal Services
Main Post Office
The main post office of Phnom Penh is located on Street 13, a short distance from Wat Phnom.
Phnom Penh is not regarded as a big shopping destination, unless your shopping list includes pirated copies travel guides (photocopied pages with reprinted covers) and fake branded items. If that's what you're looking for, head for the Phnom Penh Central Market.
Central Market (Psar Thei)
This art-deco building, constructed in the 1930's by the French, is called Psar Thei, meaning New Market. This is the place to view a day in the life of Phnom Penh. Sold here include fresh flowers, jewellery, school books, photocopied travel guides, and fake branded clothes.
Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Poung)
Nothing Russian about this place - except that it got that name during the 1980s Vietnamese occupation - the locals call it Psar Toul Tom Poung. This is a bit like a big hardware market, with stalls selling metal items, including fake Swiss watches, clocks and pirated software.
Souvenirs
The souvenir most representative of Cambodia would be the krama, the checkered scarf used by both men and women to keep out dust and sun. These are quite inexpensive, and more so if you have good bargaining skills. Other popular souvenirs include:
Silver Boxes. These are not cheap, but make exquisite display items. These intricate silver containers were used to keep betel leaf.
Silk Items. Depending on where you buy them, the silk could either be machine produced or traditionally hand woven. Look for shops selling silk items in the Central Market and Russian Market.
Gems. AsiaExplorers Advice Unless you really know your gems, my advise is to stay away from spending a small fortune on stones of dubious authenticity.
Sculpture. The serene head of Jayavarman VII, famous Angkor king from the 13th century, is a popular souvenir carved in stone. The second most popular sculpture is replicas of the Leper King from the Terrace of the Leper King in Angkor.
Basketware. You can get them from the Central Market, but for more exquisite examples (with an expected more exquisite price), visit Baskets of Cambodia, www.basketsofcambodia.com
Specialty Shops and Boutiques
If you are looking for high-quality traditional items, check out the following outlets:
Apsara Art Gallery: #170A, Street 450, Tel: 012-867390
Shop specialising in contemporary Southeast Asian art.
Asasax Art Gallery: #192, Street 178, Tel: 012-363030
Located near the Royal Palace, this is the gallery of well-known Cambodian artist, Asasax (http://www.asasax.com.kh)
Bazar, art de vivre: #28, Sihanouk; email mai_ioa@yahoo.com
Specialty shop for home decorative items, furniture, textile and lighting.
Couleurs d'Asie: #19, Street 360, Phnom Penh, Tel: 012-902650, info@couleursdasie.net
Boutique specialising in home decor, silk, curios and Asian furniture.
After the Khmer Rouge clamp down on traditional arts, cultural shows are only now beginning a quiet recovery. Rather surprisingly, it is still not easy to find regular cultural performances in Phnom Penh (not the case in Siem Reap, though). Check out the following venues for possibilities:
Souvanna Phum Theatre: 111 Street 360, corner Street 105 (tel: (023) 987 564)
Performances of traditional dance, music and shadow puppetry on most Friday and Saturday evenings.
Chatomuk Theatre: Sisowath Quay (tel: (023) 725 119)
Occasional performances of traditional music and dance.
Sights
In this section, I list out the sights in and around Phnom Penh, and provide a brief description for you to determine whether or not they are worth visiting. Some sights are hyperlinked to their own pages where you find more detailed description and original photographs.
This is a must-see if you wish to view Cambodian architecture at its finest, although I must say that it borrows heavily from Thai architecture, and is nowhere as ornate as the Grand Palace in Bangkok. The Royal Palace is located in front of an open square overlooking the Sap River. Its most prominent building as seen from the outside is the Chan Chaya Pavilion. Make sure you are decently dressed to enter the Royal Palace - I made the mistake of coming in a sleeveless tee, and had to find a shirt to cover up.
This is where you can find the best examples of Angkor sculptures. The museum is not air conditioned. Nevertheless, if you are interested in Angkor, this is where to go. The National Museum is located north of the Royal Palace, and is possible to approach either one on foot from the other. Photography is not allow inside.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
This is the high school that became S21, the most notorious prisons in Cambodia. Over 17,000 people held at S21 met a dead end, literally. From here, they were parcelled off to the extermination camp at Choeung Ek. Today, this high school has become a museum to commemorate those who died in the Khmer civil war. This place is only for those with an interest in learning about the brutality of the Khmer Rouge. Tuol Sleng is within the city of Phnom Penh. You can get here on a tuk tuk or join a day tour.
Choeung Ek Killing Fields
This is where the prisoners from S21 were taken to be executed. Many were simply bludgeoned to death to avoid wasting bullets. They were buried in shallow graves. Today, visitors walking through the killing fields of Choeung Ek can still come across broken human bones and teeth in the ground. There is a memorial stupa housing over 7280 skulls of the dead, neatly arranged by gender and age. This is definitely not a place for the faint-hearted, and makes human life appear so dispensible. Choeung Ek is a short distance outside town; you should arrange with a tuk tuk to take you here, or join a day tour.
Minor Sights
Wat Ounalom
This may be Phnom Penh's most important wat, but it is not really spectacular. Wat Ounalom is the headquaters of Cambodia's Buddhist patriachate. It was founded in 1443 and comprises 44 structures. During the Khmer Rouge era, much of the temple complex was destroyed, including its extensive library, which will take time to replenish.
Wat Phnom
Phnom Penh got its name from this temple. It stands at the top of a 27m-high hillock, with a staircase flanked on both sides by undulating nagas. The original pagoda at Wat Phnom was erected in 1373 to house four Buddha statues which washed ashore near here. A woman named Madam Penh recovered the statues from the Sap River. Phnom Penh, which means "Penh's Hill" was named after this woman.
Central Market (Psar Thmei)
This is the landmark art-deco Central Market, whose name Psar Thmei actually means new market. Apart from the architecture - a circular domed hall with four arms, the content of this market is similar to that of any other markets in Cambodia. Expect to find stalls selling cheap clothes, jewellery, stationery, flowers, and a host of item low-quality items.
Udong (@ Oudong)
Udong, which means "victorious", served as an interim capital of Cambodia, between the time Angkor was deserted and the establishment of the capital in Phnom Penh. At Phnom Udong, a hill overlooking the Udong countryside, are temple spires and viewing platforms. Here, you can get a panoramic view of the Mekong river below. To get to Udong, you may need to hire a tuk tuk for a day, or to look for a day tour.
Tours & Travel Agents
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I hope you enjoy my travel tips on Phnom Penh. If you have additional information you would like to share with me, and with fellow AsiaExplorers readers, please write to my at this email address I welcome your feedback and will continuously update this page with new information.
About the Author: AsiaExplorers is researched and written by Timothy Tye. We take reasonable care to check and verify the accuracy of the content. However, we disclaim any responsibility for any inconvenience, mishap, injury or death resulting from following the advice provided directly or indirectly by AsiaExplorers and the comments on its pages. All the photographs in AsiaExplorers are available for publication. Please contact AsiaExplorers at the following email address for your enquiries:
About the Author: AsiaExplorers is researched and written by Timothy Tye. We take reasonable care to check and verify the accuracy of the content. However, we disclaim any responsibility for any inconvenience, mishap, injury or death resulting from following the advice provided directly or indirectly by AsiaExplorers and the comments on its pages. All the photographs in AsiaExplorers are available for publication. Please contact AsiaExplorers at the following email address for your enquiries:
