World Travel GuidesPasir Salak Historical Complex, Perak


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The Pasir Salak Historical Complex is the site where JWW Birch, the first British Resident of Perak, was killed. The site is in Pasir Salak, 70 km from Ipoh City in southern Perak. Pasir Salak is in the heartland of Perak Malay culture.

Within the area around Pasir Salak are no less than 10 royal mausoleums to past Perak Sultans. It is at Pasir Salak that Perak handicrafts such as gold thread embroidery, Perak ceramics and Malay drums originated. Also from Pasir Salak came the Malay dances such as tarian selendang, lotah, dabus and tarian bubu.

Pasir Salak is regarded as the place where Malaysia's modern history began. Its a history that was born out of violence, for Pasir Salak is where a famous murder took place: that of James Wheeler Woodford Birch, (better known simply as J.W.W. Birch) the first British Resident of Perak, on 2 November 1875.

Birch was murdered because he was said to have been disrespectful of the Malay rulers, and have enacted laws that were loopsided. One of those who plotted to liquidate him was Dato Maharajalela who was extremely displeased with Birch for abolishing slavery in Perak - and yet kept slaves within his own household.

Dato Maharajalela derived much of his income from raiding Orang Asli villages for slaves, and the abolishing of slavery dealt him a severe blow.

The events leading to the placement of a British resident in Perak was the Pangkor Treaty of 1874, which was the result of the Larut Wars between the Hai San and Ghee Hin secret societies, which were themselves aligned to different factions of the Perak nobility.



Pasir Salak Time Tunnel building
© Timothy Tye using this photo

The rebellion of 1875 in Pasir Salak sowed the seeds of nationalism, which manifested itself in the form of opposition to colonialism, to the formation of Malayan Union, and ignited the flame of independence.

Today, Pasir Salak is made a historical complex. The brainchild of Perak Menteri Besar Dato' Seri Ramli Ngah Talib, the Pasir Salak Historical Complex was officially open on 26 May 1990. The purpose of the historical complex is to remind the younger generation of the events in Pasir Salak and the fight against colonialism in Perak, and also to remember the struggle and the sacrifice of the warriors to uphold the dignity of the race and country.

The Pasir Salak historical complex affords a panoramic view of the Perak River. There are two monuments, one erected by the British for Birch, near the site of the assasination. Another was for those convicted of the crime, Dato' Maharajalela and his followers Dato' Sagor, Pandak Indut, Kulup Ali, Ngah Jabor and Panjang Bur. There is a time tunnel complex where visitors are taken through a diorama showcasing Malay civilization from the very beginning, traced to Kuala Selinsing, Perak, which existed between 200BC and 1000AD. In addition, Pasir Salak also showcases traditional Malay houses.

The murder trial was held at Kota Ngah Ibrahim, near Matang. I visited that place on a separate trip. Read also the Taiping to learn how the clan warfare between the Hai San and Ghee Hin secret societies led to British intervention in Perak, and resulted in the installation of a British Resident there.

Despite the many signboards pointing to Pasir Salak, I found it to be terribly far and out of the way. I would not have visited it if I wasn't doing this documentation of places in Perak for AsiaExplorers.





(top) The majestic Pasir Salak waterfalls. One needs to be there to grasp its size.
(left) Forest canopy creates a green pattern near the Pasir Salak falls.
(below) Ferns at Pasir Salak.





(top) The majestic Pasir Salak waterfalls. One needs to be there to grasp its size.
(left) Forest canopy creates a green pattern near the Pasir Salak falls.
(below) Ferns at Pasir Salak.

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