When I was a kid, the hills above the fishing village of Batu Maung on the southeastern tip of Penang Island is both a source of curiosity, excitement as well as fear. I grew up in Batu Maung, and in my early days, my friends and I used to climb those hills to watch planes landing and taking off from the Bayan Lepas airport. We would pass by durian and rambutan orchards where kind pakciks will let us eat our share of rambutans and durians, if we don't pluck them.
Entrance into the underground tunnels.
However, deep in this jungle and high in the hills, there are dark, mysterious tunnels. From the first time we came across those tunnels I knew they are World War II relics, but I have never been in it. There were talks that the tunnels were haunted, and by their look, they don't really dispell this rumour.
So for over twenty years, those tunnels were tucked away in the deep recesses of my mind. It was only recently - October 14, 2002 to be exact - that news emerged in the newpapers that those tunnels have been rehabilitated and turned into Penang's newest museum - the War Relic Museum.
On a lazy Sunday afternoon, after a rather uneventful trip to visit the World Fish Centre open day, I detoured to this museum. A worn-out track zigzaged uphill into the jungle clearing. Entrance fee was a hefty RM5.00. Considering I have come all the way here, I reluctantly parted with the money.
The war museum is a monument to the mistake made by the British in thinking that the enemy would attack from the sea, and thus they constructed the bunkers and enforcement with cannons aimed to the sea. As it turn out, the Japanese invaded by land, coming down the Peninsula, and rendering the preparation moot.
The British defense consisted of light machineguns and Bofors anti-aircraft on Bukit Batu Maung, or more correctly, Bukit Punjab. The guns are aimed at protecting the Butterworth airfield. There are several pillboxes built to protect the island from sea landings. The entire complex covers an area of 20 acres. The British Royal Engineers and a work force comprising of local labourers blasted and dug into Bukit Punjab to create a fort.
As it turned out, on December 16, the British evacuated when the Japanese started bombing the island and seized many ships and boats in the harbour the day before. The Japanese came ashore at dawn of the following day. They arrived on small boats and seized the island without losing a single soldier. They were surprised that the British did not even destroy the radio station in Penang before evacuating, so they used it to broadcast their propaganda to Malaya and Singapore.
From under Japanese Occupation, it Batu Maung Fort was used to protect Japanese shipping from Allied attack. After ww2, it was abandoned. Another 60 years would have passed before the Penang Government decided to restore the complex and turn it into the Penang War Museum.
As you explore this museum, you get to see the pill boxes, tunnels, observation tower, lock up and even cook house used by the British soldiers. If you are keen to rediscover how it was during the Second World War, then you should pay a visit to the War Relic Museum. Otherwise, it may not be worth the while to allow the mosquitoes in this place to feast on you. And by the way, bring insect repellant!
Penang War Museum Photo Gallery
A magazine storage room.
This staircase leads down to another tunnel. It is closed to the public.
Picture of the Prisoners-of-War's latrine. The waste is used as garden fertilizer.
The soldiers' quarters.
View of the quarters surrounded by the jungle.
The kitchen.
Soldiers' quarters in the 1930s.
Penang Overview
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