White Dragon King Temple (Bai Long Wang), Chonburi, Thailand

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White Dragon King Temple is a Taoist temple in Si Racha in Chonburi Province, Thailand. It is the main place of worship of the White Dragon King or Bai Long Wang, a Taoist guru that has garnered a huge following among the celebrities in Hong Kong, including Andy Lau, Edison Chen, Gillian Chung, Kelly Chen and Tony Leung. This has in turn generated much popularity and fame for the guru, particularly among the Chinese in Southeast Asia who come seeking blessings.

The guru, whose name is Master Kim Nam, but better known as the Bai Long Wang or White Dragon King, is regarded as a living god by many. Born in 1937 as Chow Yam Nam, he is said to have led a normal menial working life that included fixing motorcycles, working in a factory and even hawking in the streets.

White Dragon King Temple (5 February 2012)
© Timothy Tye using this photo

At the age of 13, Master Kim Nam is said to have been visited by the spirit of the white dragon king beside the Daode Tianzun, one of the three Pure Ones, the three highest deities of the Taoist pantheon. Master Kim Nam was only granted trusteeship of the dragon king spirit when he was in his forties. Despite his following, the White Dragon King is very mortal indeed. In 2010 he fell ill with influenza, and had to close his temple while seeking treatment in Bangkok.

Although I am not a believer, I visited the White Dragon King Temple in the company of a group of devotees. I wasn't even dressed for the occasion (I wasn't told that I have to wear all white), and was a bit concerned whether I would be allowed in. Thankfully nobody bothered with me.

Pagoda at the White Dragon King Temple (5 February 2012)
© Timothy Tye using this photo

I saw a sea of devotees all dressed in white at the White Dragon King's temple complex, which sprawls across the residential neighbourhood in Si Racha. The compound has space for at least a hundred vehicles - most of the regular visitors to the temple come by minivan. There are public toilets and even one specially for the van drivers.

Not being here to worship, I wandered around the complex while the devotees went in to worship the White Dragon King. In fact, I did not even know that the White Dragon King was a person until I arrived at the temple. Devotees - almost all Chinese - were lined up on the field facing the temple complex according to their Chinese zodiac sign. Flanking the main temple building are pavilions where other devotees waited for their zodiac sign to be called up.

I was at the White Dragon King Temple from early morning until around 10:30. Just as I was leaving, I saw the guru himself, seated on a sort of a throne in the hall.

White dragons of the temple roof (5 February 2012)
© Timothy Tye using this photo

Visiting the White Dragon King Temple

The White Dragon King Temple is opened from 6:00 am on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Devotees are expected to be dressed in white. As the guru accepts only a hundred or so consultations per day, visitors often arrive as early as 3:00 am in the morning and camp outside the ground.

Coming from Bangkok, take the No. 7 motorway until interchange with the 3241 road. Continue west on the 3241 road until turning on your right, to Si Racha-Nong Kho 23 lane, to reach the compound of the White Dragon King Temple. The distance from the No. 7 motorway to Si Racha-Nong Kho 23 is about 3.3 km or 2 miles.

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Master Kim Nam surrounded by followers (5 February 2012)
© Timothy Tye using this photo

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